Kay Chan the fashion editor of MILK MAGAZINE HK randomly stumbled across my collection and got in touch with me. She wanted to conduct an interview on how young designers like myself break through in to the cut throat fashion industry. She said her readers would be enticed to know the details of how designers start out, what their process is and how they achieve their final outcome which becomes their dream. Here are a few questions she asked me:
Please briefly introduce yourself, like your background, your subject, and your hobby.
My name is Hayley Lai and I am a recent graduate from the University of Westminster. I studied Fashion Design for four years and under went some amazing placements during this time.
How would you describe yourself?
I would say that im impulsive, creative, daring, experimental, alternative and confident.
What has been your greatest moment?
In June 2010 I had my first catwalk show which was held at the famous P3 space in Baker Street London. This has been home to shows for famous designers such as Christopher Kane, Louise Goldin, Todd Lynn to name a few at London Fashion Week. Important press and buyers were invited to attend alongside proud family members. I watched my collection go down the runway which was the surrealist feeling ever. I had proved to myself that my designs from paper had become real life items of clothing and were being viewed by over 300 people. The next day I had press coverage from blogs, fashion sites and newspapers. My name was cropping up and Susie Bubble even recognized my talent and featured me on her blog.
What’s your favorite/must have item in your wardrobe?
I am a shoe addict so it would have to be my rare DIOR shoes with a metal cut-out heel or my white Russian fox fur coat which I got at a bargain price at Portebello market.
Who are the most talented people you have ever met? Why?
Emilio de la Morena is a designer I have worked with for 4 years running now. He has exquisite styling ideas and his garment construction is very technical and complex. Emilio is a fashion genius and I often learn so much from his beautiful collections and concepts.
Is there anything you haven’t been able to do yet but would like to do?
I would love to design an outfit for BARBIE she has been my icon, muse and idol since I can remember.
For you, what is classic and contemporary?
Classic and contemporary for me is something that is endlessly timeless and is an item that can be carried from day through to night. CHANEL is a perfect example as their pieces are never outdated or boring. They remain beautiful and feminine.
Please tell me how you got into design school?
After I completed my A-levels I was offered an unconditional place for an Art Foundation course. Here I received a distinction and applied to the University of Westminster. I remember writing about my passion for Barbies and the head of the fashion course contacted me straight away, he said my bio humored him and it intrigued him to the kind of person I was.
What started the passion?
Barbies! I was obsessed as a child and am still to this day. I pushed all extremes and boundaries to make her wardrobe the latest must haves. Mums curtains, bed sheets and kitchen towels
Suffered the consequences to my experimental design process.
Who/What inspires you most in fashion industry?
There is never a right or wrong with fashion so we have the incentive to be as creative as we please. I thrive off making clothes out of alternative types of fabrics and looking for new ways to construct them. Being experimental and breaking out of the comfort zone is what gives me the adrenaline to keep designing. To provoke a reaction from individuals through your clothes is always exhilarating.
What do you least admire about the fashion industry?
You can work for ridiculously long hours in the fashion industry with very little pay. That is why it is important to make sure this is your passion. If you do something you love, money and working hours will never be an issue.
Could you tell me about your designs? How did you actually get the idea of your design?
I was fascinated by a mathematical artistic genius called Escher. His work would appear in my maths text books at school. I began investigating more of his pieces of art and was intrigued to his concept behind his work. Being inspired by structure, forms and architecture I reworked the origami shape from an electra body and began repeating it like how Escher did with his work.
I’m particularly interested in the crafted nature of your work, is the process of making just as important for you as the design process?
The making process of my work is extremely important to my design process. I almost work backwards. Once I have made samples I experiment on the stand and manipulate how it would work on a silhouette. From here, I take pictures and make sketches and that’s the process that leads me on to be inspired to design. I like to see how things would look in a 3D form first rather than on paper, it helps to get an understanding of how my pieces would work.
How do you work – from sketches etc. - or do you just start the crafting process?
We collate a series of images which is our mood for the collection. From here I usually draw up a few quick sketches of the type of silhouette im looking to work with and perhaps the type of fabrics. When the ideas begin to flow that’s when I start experimenting in 3D by making samples. This encourages the design process to take place.
Tell me about your experience of participate in the fashion show.
When I was selected to show my work at Graduate fashion Week as part of the catwalk show it was my proudest moment. It meant that all my hard work had been appreciated and was finally going to be recognized by hundreds of people. It was everything that I had worked and dreamed for and it was coming to life. The experience was immense.
What is the environment like in your studio? Does this differ from other places you have worked? (E.g. atmosphere etc)
Working in our fashion studio was a lot more relaxed and friendly, everyone supported eachother and we had your own personal space to work in. Working at other designers studios is a lot more different as it is their own personal space you are working in so you don’t feel as comfortable. Seeing as it’s not your vision you are trying to achieve makes you feel you don’t have as much control or input.
What is the most interesting thing of being a fashion designer?
You can be inspired by almost anything that can create a masterpiece of a collection and it can have the least relevant connection to fashion itself.
Some designers good at cutting, some designers good at creating patterns, how about you?
Personally my weakest area is the construction side. I make things up as I go along as I can see how it is coming together in 3D rather than trying to imagine it from a 2D form. My strongest point is the design and research side. I have strong visuals which is why my styling is always recognized. My strength of being able to consider not just clothes but the overall look and accessories has won me much appraisal. I had no idea on how to make accessories yet pulled it together for my end of year show which complimented my collection well.
Who is your favorite designer?
Sandra Buckland, Mark Fast or Louise Goldin. All designers have changed our perception on knit and made us aware that knitwear doesn’t have to be for a practical purpose. Knitwear has transformed and been made to seem beautiful, modern and fascinating.
Who/What inspire you most in the creative process?
The thought of seeing your paper design transform itself in to a garment is extremely inspiring. I almost become so impatient as I usually like the results to be instant. Making something from an idea which then becomes real is surreal.
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